The present invention relates to a method of cutting a bias cloth with a stretchable function, and a method of sewing the a same.
Conventionally, a bias cloth extends longitudinally obliquely, and an extending drape or portion thereof is oblique relative to a warp weaving direction to form an unbalanced oblique drape. A hem or bottom line of a skirt, a bottom line of a jacket, and bottom lines of trousers are twisted to be laterally asymmetrical. Also, a bias tape used for sewing is formed of a unidirectional or one-way bias tape, and in a sewing machine, a unidirectional cloth feeding is used so that an upper front of sewing is backward feeding and a lower front is forward feeding. Thus, in sewing the bias tape by the sewing machine, one of them is either a reverse feeding or reverse stretching or extending, so that a twist phenomenon occurs.
However, in a conventional method of cutting a bias cloth or method of sewing the same, as shown in FIGS. 9(a) through 10(c), due to the oblique drape phenomenon, a warp direction of a center drape is strong and a weft direction thereof is weak, so that the center drape results in a biased drape. Furthermore, it is impossible to sew the bias laterally symmetrically since the seam is a twisted seam due to the feeding by the sewing machine.
Therefore, if a garment is sewn by the conventional method, as shown in FIG. 9(c), when a front button of a jacket is unfastened or a jacket is unbuttoned, front overlap portions are opened by obliquely twistingly falling, so that lower collar becomes an unstable shape and concaved, resulting in failing to keep the shapes of the lower collar.
Thus, according to the conventional cutting method and the sewing method, the concave or lowered down portion occur at the center of the lower collar and a three-dimensional collar with the collar turning line can not be made, so that the garment made by the aforementioned method is not finished beautifully.
Accordingly, an inventor of the invention has noticed a fact that there is a structure of the building in which a thick vertical column of the building and thin oblique columns thereof cross each other to strengthen a bridge or building such that a lateral distortion is supported by the columns as a whole.
Then, the inventor of the invention has considered whether the structure of the garment can prevent a twisting by sewing or wrinkles by washing, that is, a balanced structure supported by a principle of repulsion of the oblique crossing, to be achieved by sewing.
Namely, in case of sewing the cloths, the inventor of the invention tried to find a method in which a lateral or right and left deformation, which occurs at a sewn portion of the cloth by the one-way feeding by the sewing machine, and folding wrinkles, which occur at the time of washing, are recovered artificially as in a spring effect of the oblique crossing columns of the building.
Normally, the cloth is formed of warp and weft weaving, or is formed of warp knitting and weft knitting, and when the cloth structured as described above is sewn into a garment, the cloth tends to fall down vertically by the gravity, so that collar of the garment, such as a jacket of a suit, moves at a fold-over portion in an unstable condition by a force of falling down vertically from a neck point. Also, in the collar after washing, a middle folding portion of the collar falls downwardly by the gravity. By adopting the aforementioned principle, the main cloth is considered as the vertical column, and an oblique core piece with left-to-right bias is considered as the oblique column, and another core piece as a right-to-left bias is made to cross the main cloth.
Thus, by the method of crossing the left-to-right core piece and the right-to-left bias lining toward the warp weaving of the main cloth bias, a balance is maintained, and a collar cloth which tends to be flat by the gravity can keep a three-dimensional and soft form by the force of crossing the oblique cloths while keeping a roundness and having a three-dimensional shape. Therefore, as a result of studying how the column in crossing the oblique columns is obtained in case of cutting, bonding, and sewing the clothes, the present invention has been made.
Accordingly, an object of the invention is to provide methods of cutting, bonding, and sewing core pieces, tapes, and linings to woven fabric cloths, cut-and-sew type cloths, leather, and bias front cloths by utilizing crossing tensions of the left bias and right bias.
Further objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the following description of the invention.
To achieve the aforementioned objects, a first aspect of the present invention provides a method of cutting a woven cloth into a bias cloth, which comprises: cutting a cloth woven by warps and wefts vertical to the warp threads at 45 to 55 degrees into a left-to-right bias portion and a right-to-left bias portion as bias cloths to thereby achieve an one-directional stretchability for the right-to-left bias portion and the left-to-right bias portion as a bias front cloth, a bias adhesive core piece, a bias adhesive tape, and a bias lining.
In a method of bonding and sewing a bias core piece and a bias tape according to a second aspect of the invention, a left-to-right bias cloth for warps in a left-to-right bias direction and a right-to-left bias cloth for warps in a right-to-left bias direction (main cloths, core pieces, tapes and linings) are laminated to cross each other, and sewn together so that a return stretchability is maintained by a forward stretching and a backward stretching. Also, a forward stretching of the left-to-right bias tape is stretched forward by the sewing machine and feeding of the thread, and a right-to-left bias tape is stretched forward and sewn even by the forward feeding by the sewing machine, so that the left and right twisting and reverse turning phenomenon of the collar can be prevented.
According to a third aspect of the invention, in the method of sewing of the first and second aspects of the invention, right-to-left bias core pieces are respectively bonded to a front body portion of a jacket, a G collar or a lower collar, a facing, and an upper collar such that warp weaving portions of the respective bias core pieces are bonded in a right-to-left direction. Then, the front body, the G collar, the facing and the upper collar are sewn and turned inside out, so that a warp weaving of the core piece bonded to the body and a warp weaving of the core piece bonded to the facing diagonally cross each other to provide a stretch tension. Namely, the upper collar and the lower collar are supported by the crossing core pieces, and the body and the facing are supported by the crossing core pieces, resulting in a three-dimensional collar portion.
In a sewing method according to a fourth aspect of the invention, the bias adhesive core is bonded to an entire surface of a stretchable cloth having an unstable stretchability, such as a xe2x80x9cLycraxe2x80x9d cloth having a large stretchability which can be stretched in vertical, lateral and diagonal directions, and a knit cloth (warp knitting or weft knitting), and by using bias adhesive core pieces and bias linings cut by a method of cutting the cloth according to one of the first through third aspects of the invention, the stretchable cloth and the knit cloth are cut and bonded.
A fifth aspect of the invention provides a method of forming a binder tape from a bias tape. When a binder tape made of a single main cloth is sewn, a twist phenomenon occurs. Namely, when the single cloth is folded and sewn by first stitches, reverse stretching phenomenon occurs at an upper surface cloth and a lower surface cloth. This is because the stretching of the upper surface cloth and the stretching of the lower surface cloth are opposite, resulting in a puckering in the binder tape. According to the fifth aspect of the invention, in order to prevent the aforementioned phenomenon, two binder tapes are provided, and one of them is formed of a left-to-right bias tape, and the other of them is formed of a right-to-left bias tape. Then, a xe2x80x9cLycraxe2x80x9d stretchable tape is placed between the left-to-right bias tape and the right-to-left bias tape, and zigzag stitches are formed thereon. In the binder tape structured as described above, since the xe2x80x9cLycraxe2x80x9d tape core is placed between the upper surface of the binder tape and the lower surface thereof, the upper surface and the lower surface in the binder tape provide a one-directional stretching, so that the binder tape is not twisted with sewing threads by the sewing machine.
When a garment is made by bias cloths, in the bias cloths woven by warps and wefts, by a twist phenomenon, a obliquely falling drape occurs. This is caused by a loosen weft weaving. As a method of correcting this phenomenon, a sixth aspect of the invention provides a method of correcting a twist phenomenon in cutting and sewing a bias cloth. In the method of correcting the twist phenomenon, an oblique, twisting deformation of the bias is corrected by a method of allowing a gravity of the cloth to fall down vertically. Namely, marks for sewing joint portions of a front panel and a back panel of the garment are displaced and sewn to thereby change the twist, resulting in correcting the twist in the garment which is not provided with linings.
According to the methods of cutting, bonding and sewing of the invention, in the bias front cloths, the bias core pieces, the bias lining, and the bias tapes made of the woven fabric cloth or the knit cloth, stretchability of the bias is formed of an elastic tension, and the elastic tension is divided into the left-to-right tension and the right-to-left tension. When the artificial tension or a feeding tension by the sewing machine is applied and released later, the bias cloth can be returned to the original shape.
Also, according to the present invention, by bonding the left-to-right bias core pieces to the body portion and the upper collar and by bonding the right-to-left bias core pieces to the facing and the G collar, the bias core pieces can be provided to the collar portion of the garment, so that the three-dimensional collar at a portion from the collar to the facing can be made by a bias elastic tension, and reverse warping of the collar and wrinkles after cleaning can be prevented. As a result, a beautiful three-dimensional collar can be formed, and the garment can be neatly sewn.